For my column in today's Metro NY, a visit to Leo's Latticini in Corona, Queens.
“Is this your first time here?” she asks from the kitchen, her hands over a basin of milky water where she’s pulling mozzarella like it’s taffy.
I nod. I must look lost.
“You like mozzarella? Come. Taste.”
She rips off a hunk of the soft cheese, squeezes it in her dripping fist, and thrusts it towards me. Like a good Catholic faced with the Eucharist, I take and I eat. The fresh cheese is warm, silky, and delicious.
“Chew it good,” she says.
This is my introduction to Irene DeBenedittis of Leo’s Laticcini, also known as Mama’s of Corona. Irene makes the mozzarella and her sister Marie does the cooking—turkey with gravy, roast pork, manicotti, you name it.
“I don’t use recipes,” says Marie. “I just go on instinct" ...
Please read the rest of the essay here.