Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Schwartz On Second

Back in December I reported that a longtime funeral home on 2nd Avenue in the East Village had closed. I wrote, somewhat facetiously, “Maybe now it will become something really meaningful, like another Duane Reade.” Turns out, that prediction may be coming true. A Duane Reade has been proposed to go right next to the Chase branch that replaced the Second Avenue Deli.

Andy Schwartz, great-grandson of founder Sigmund, was kind enough to share vintage photos and give me a tour of the funeral home. We visited the Sanctuary, where Ethel and Julius Rosenberg were memorialized after their execution, and the viewing parlor where Lou Reed and other mourners bid farewell to poet Delmore Schwartz (no relation).


1936: 2nd ave. building replaced by schwartz

The funeral home opened in the 1920s on East Fifth Street. In 1938, the building in the photo above (which housed The Daily Worker) was demolished and Sigmund built a new building for his business. His son Harry carried it on until retiring in the late 1960s, when he sold it, and it was later resold to a large funeral corporation. It was this company that finally closed the location in 2007.


1940: schwartz building, click to see details

Since then, it has sat empty, though a few Schwartzes, Andy included, still live in the apartments upstairs. A funereal smell permeates the softly carpeted rooms, vaguely waxen and dustily floral. The floors creak when you walk on them. In the Sanctuary, under 30-foot arched ceilings, the acoustics amplify a whisper and not a sound can be heard from the traffic of Second Avenue. You might even say there’s a pall.

I asked Andy about Duane Reade, especially for a block already saturated with chains, in a neighborhood where many people have become resentful of chain occupation. Andy was diplomatic and clearly conflicted. The process has not been simple. The building is owned by the many Schwartz descendants, a large family of "shareholders," most of them elderly. They talked with many interested businesses, but the odd configuration of the space, along with other factors, including those financial, meant that the space could go to the fifth-largest retail chain in New York City.



Andy has been involved in the Lower East Side scene since the late 1970s when he became the publisher of the influential New York Rocker magazine, which helped make stars of Bowery luminaries like Patti Smith, Blondie, and The Ramones.

Standing on Second Avenue, Andy recalled, “When the box office opened at the Fillmore East, my grandmother would walk down and get us tickets.” He was there on its opening night in 1968 with Janis Joplin and Big Brother and the Holding Company, and for many other shows.

I asked him how he felt about the changes in the neighborhood. He told me, “I can’t say I disagree with those who say the primacy of real estate values is leeching the character out of this neighborhood and much of New York City,” then he went on to point out places from the past: Starbucks used to be the famous Orchidia pizzeria, Max Brenner was a five-and-dime, Tasti-D-Lite was a comic book shop.

Now, someday soon, we may be saying, “That Duane Reade used to be a funeral parlor.”



If anyone would like to preserve a piece of this history, the original 1938 pews from the Sanctuary will be for sale. You can contact Andy directly at Gramercy7(at)yahoo(dot)com.

Monday, August 11, 2008

*Everyday Chatter

Tour Manhattanville in pictures before Columbia scrubs it from the map. [Times]

Give more love to the Iron Triangle before it's gone. [FNY]

Go to Russo's with Baha and pick up a nice mozz. [SE]

A fascinating discussion is happening about the ins and outs of kosher gym-going, which I didn't know even existed. Is this another clever satire? [Gothamist]

We are losing Orchard Street building by building. Bowery Boogie looks at the rubble of #163 and here's demolished 139-141. One of the lost includes a gallery, recently relocated to Brooklyn. Click here to see what used to be:


Starbucks and Whole Foods have increased car traffic in the suburbs: “'It is not just that American households have more cars...it is that they are finding new places to take them.' ...They’re driving to Whole Foods because they don’t like the produce at their neighborhood supermarket. They’re going out to get coffee. (So much of Starbucks’s revenue now comes from drive-through lanes that the company will put stores across the street from each other, sparing drivers 'the agony of having to make a left turn during rush hour.')." [Times]

Visit one of the EV's best dive bars, the Holiday Cocktail Lounge, before it vanishes too. [RH]

The International Bar, one of our best dive's revived, is having a poetry reading tonight at 7:00 in their back patio. Check it out.

Sept 27: Save the date to Save the Bowery at a Bowery Poetry Club fundraiser. [SLES]

Dance of the Giglio

Just before the rain swept in yesterday, the Giglio Boys of East Harlem got their handmade, five-ton, five-story tower off the ground. What a thrill to be alongside this massive, bouncing, gilded lily spire hauled on the shoulders of about 100 men and ridden by a brass band, complete with a couple of priests and a guy singing Italian folk songs.



Unlike San Gennaro, this feast was small and cozy. Everyone seemed to know each other. There were few outsiders. It felt a little bit like crashing a family reunion. It also had a more traditional Italian ambiance, as if you might stumble upon this event in a Sicilian village.

Like other southern Italian organizations, the Giglio feast has a hierarchy. There are capos, lieutenants, and paranzas, the lifters. They wore white caps and Old Glory bandannas that came in plastic packages with their blue t-shirts. Under the weight of the Giglio, the paranzas strained and groaned, their faces turning red, the veins in their arms swelling.





The crowd cheered and hustled alongside as the Giglio was shifted and turned, carried up Pleasant Avenue, bounced and shaken. The Statue of Liberty (or "Statua Libbidy" as they called it) waved her torch and did a little dance of her own high atop the Giglio.



For this one weekend, East Harlem's Pleasant Avenue was an Italian neighborhood again, filled with the smells of sweet sausages and parmesan cheese, populated by big cigar-chewing guys who say "fuggedaboudit" as they talk about a "63 Firebird with the plastic still on the seats," and women who proclaim "Maddon, you're gettin' too big" as they lift children into their arms.

After yesterday's festivities, most of them vanished to their quiet Long Island streets and Jersey suburbs, abandoning East Harlem once more to the condo developers.


Moonlighting on Curbed

Last spring, I spent a couple of days guest-blogging for the fine folks at the Curbed Network. I'm doing it again this week, along with Restless and following fellow guest-bloggers, EV Grieve and Lost City. As before, I will add links here to stuff I do over there. Thanks for reading in both places.
  • Not that I had great love for the Miracle Grill, but I'm sad to say its garden is about to sprout a condo that's taller than its neighbors: Miracle Grill Garden Goes Condo

Friday, August 8, 2008

*Everyday Chatter

Went by the shuttered Nikos yesterday, hoping to find it still open, a few offerings left on the racks. The gates were closed, the shop emptied, only the sun-faded journal covers in the windows. I took a few pictures anyway. A man peered in alongside me. "You could get anything here," he said sadly, "I knew this would happen. It was only a matter of time." A fellow Jeremiah.


Why does it seem like a super-exclusive club that disguises itself as a used bookstore, in a town and a neighborhood that is helplessly watching its bookstores die one after another, is trying to induce in its neighbors feelings of impotent rage? [Grub St]

Amanda Burden's underlying plan for the EV/LES: "we want five- to seven-story buildings and small retail on the first and second floors... By encouraging retail on the side streets and allowing developers more floors in their buildings..." [NYDN] via [EVG]

Coverage of the Captured screening and interview with Clayton Patterson: "New York now is a museum, a relic. It's over." [NYO] via [EVG]

August 22: Another chance to see Captured, with Q&A. This time at the New Museum--you know, that place that's helping to change the face of the Bowery? The screening is part of their Bowery Artist Tribute, because from now on, Bowery artists will only exist in a museum. Kind of illustrates perfectly Patterson's sentiment above, doesn't it?

Diner-savior Michael Perlman gives a history of the Ridgewood Theater he is trying to save. Sign the petition. [JB]

Get Ready for Giglio

Perhaps lesser known than the Giglio festival in Williamsburg, the East Harlem Giglio dates back to about 1900, when immigrants from Southern Italy and Sicily settled throughout this neighborhood, all along the area around Pleasant Avenue.

In the 1960s and 70s, the Italians fled Harlem--and took their Giglio with them. From 1971 until 2000, no Giglio danced in Manhattan.



I've been lurking around the neighborhood lately and came upon the Giglio Boys prepping for their annual Dance of the Giglio. Men and boys sawed and hammered wood, constructing a tall tower that rivaled the construction cranes nearby. "Giglio" is Italian for "lily," and it's a 5-story, 5-ton tower covered in a papier-mache face decorated with statues of saints and angels. The East Harlem Giglio is topped with a Statue of Liberty.



When I returned to Pleasant Avenue last week, the Giglio was complete. I found it standing by itself, without a fence or man to guard it from vandals. But I guess people around there know not to mess with the Italians.



This year, the festivities run from now until Sunday, when the official "dance" begins at 2:00 in the afternoon. See what that's all about in this film clip from 1971. If that won't get you to go, maybe this will: Last year, they raffled off tickets to nearby restaurant Rao's, probably the single most impossible place to get a table. In fact, one of the only ways to get in is to win tickets. Maybe the Giglio boys will give you a chance to try your luck again.

Until then, for a nostalgic tour of old East Harlem and Giglios from days past, take a look at these historic photos.

For more pics of this year's Giglio, click here

Thursday, August 7, 2008

*Everyday Chatter

Slacktivist Penley makes peace with Bowery Wine--takes aim elsewhere. [Grub St]

Mickey Mouse may take over your subway station and turn it into a Magical Kingdom of corporate ownership (...he said, looking at real estate listings for other towns, other cities.) [Gothamist]

Very, very bad news: Nikos, the fantastic and ramshackle and overstuffed magazine shop on the corner of 6th Ave and 11th St, is closing. This was the only place in the entire city you could find the best selection of literary journals, including hard to find ones like New York Quarterly. [Gothamist]

Nikos' empty racks, photo Sarah Weiser, NYSun

But, look, a new used and rare bookshop just opened on the LES. Oops, my mistake, that's a complete impossibility. It's actually a super-exclusive nightclub. [Grub St]

Long-term EV/LESers, get ready to be rezoned, evicted, and rent-hiked out your ass. [SLES]

Someone asked why does Bald Man Chocolates repel me? Sure, it's subjective, but watching a sidewalk packed with kids and tourists gulping down buckets of melted chocolate, I don't know...it's kind of scatological. Says the menu: "...like a child's fantasy...smell it...lick it slowly and passionately. Make love to it." Not that there's anything wrong with scat play, but call it what it is. Freud would agree:


Tim gives etiquette tips to out-of-control tourists on how not to interact with NYC dog-walkers. [CR]

Brooks provides another etiquette lesson for city behaviors. [LC]

Which means it's a good time to plug the VNY Urban Etiquette Signs flickr group. Join and add, there's no shortage of signage out there.