In the New Yorker's Talk of the Town last week, Shake Shack czar Danny Meyer messes with the egg cream at his Whitney Museum restaurant, making it with "organic chocolate from San Francisco" instead of Fox's U-Bet, giving it "a more leathery, berry sweetness." A leathery egg cream?
The Atlantic also gave it a try. Meyer's restaurant manager "boasted of the house-made chocolate syrup and the 'hand-crafting' of the egg creams," writes Corby Kummer. "But the syrup? A bit faint in flavor, ever so slightly chalky on the aftertaste. I asked for another with Fox's U-Bet syrup."
Meyer's Whitney Museum Egg Cream, Serious Eats
I don't understand why people keep messing with the egg cream. It started around 2008 when Chocolate Bar in the East Village aimed to "reinvigorate" the supposedly dying delicacy with flavors like hazelnut and cappuccino. As we saw here, the egg cream was alive and well. Still, the devolution had been set in motion.
Since then, the egg cream has endured many humiliations at the hands of so-called artisans. This spring, we heard about the egg cream "course" at swank 11 Madison Park: "made with malted milk syrup and vanilla beans, Battenkill Creamery milk and seltzer from one of the last suppliers in the city that refills old-school bottles. In a four-star flourish, a splash of olive oil is added with a silver oil can from Tiffany & Company."
(Watch the precious procedure here.)
11 Madison Park, NY Times
If you're looking for a good, authentic, non-"artisanal" egg cream, go to Eisenberg's, where they use U-Bet and no other. Or just head over to Ray's Candy for a plain old chocolate in a paper cup--cheap!
More egg creams:
Egg Cream Tour 1
Egg Cream Tour 2